How to Replace a Toilet Wax Ring in 6 Steps

When to replace a toilet wax ring

The wax ring is a one-time seal between the toilet's outlet horn and the closet flange in the floor. Most of the time it works quietly for years, but when it fails you usually notice water at the base of the toilet after a flush. A persistent musty smell or a dark stain on the floor can also mean the ring has broken down. The article on toilet wax ring failure signs lists the warning signs in more detail.

Before you start, make sure the wax ring is actually the problem. Water can come from a loose supply connection, a leaking tank-to-bowl gasket, or condensation on the tank. If the moisture appears only around the base and seems tied to flushing, the ring is the likely cause. The guide to a toilet base leak, wax ring or crack will help you tell the difference.

• Water or a dark stain on the floor around the base
• A sewage-like smell that gets stronger after flushing
• A toilet that rocks even with tight bolts
• Flooring near the toilet that feels soft

Tools and supplies

You do not need specialty tools for this repair. An adjustable wrench or groove-joint pliers handles the supply nut and the closet bolts, and a putty knife or stiff scraper removes old wax. A bucket, a sponge, and old rags catch the water that is left in the tank, bowl, and supply line. Have a drop cloth ready for the toilet when you set it down.

The wax ring comes as a plain ring or as a ring with a molded plastic sleeve. The sleeve helps guide the bowl into the drain, but the plain style is fine for most flanges that sit level with the finished floor. If you prefer a rubber alternative, the comparison in toilet wax ring vs rubber gasket explains the differences.

• Adjustable wrench or groove-joint pliers
• Bucket, sponge, and rags
• Putty knife or stiff scraper
• New wax ring
• Closet bolts and nuts if the old ones are corroded
• Drop cloth and a flathead screwdriver

Step 1: Shut off the water and drain the toilet

Close the shut-off valve behind the toilet by turning the handle clockwise. Flush the toilet and hold the handle down for a few seconds so the tank can empty through the bowl. Use a sponge and bucket to remove the water that remains in the tank and in the bowl trap. Then disconnect the supply line from the tank with your wrench and tilt it into the bucket to catch any water left in the line.

Take the opportunity to look at the supply line while it is disconnected. If it is cracked, stiff, or leaking at the connections, replace it before reinstalling the toilet. The steps are in how to replace a toilet supply line.

Step 2: Remove the toilet from the flange

Pop the plastic caps off the closet bolts at the base of the toilet. They usually pry up with a flathead screwdriver. Loosen the nuts below the caps with your wrench. If the nuts are rusted, apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. A bolt that will not turn can be cut with a hacksaw, because it is easier to replace the bolt than to fight a corroded one.

With the nuts off, rock the toilet gently from side to side to break the wax bond. Lift the bowl straight up and away from the flange. Toilets are heavy and the center of gravity is easy to misjudge, so have a second person help you carry it. Set the toilet upright on the drop cloth. The complete how to remove a toilet guide includes tips for protecting the floor and your back.

Step 3: Scrape away old wax and inspect the flange

Scrape the old wax off the flange and off the outlet horn on the bottom of the toilet. A putty knife or a stiff scraper works well. Put the scrapings directly into a trash bag. If the toilet is going back on the same flange, the surface must be clean and dry so the new ring can seal against it.

Inspect the flange before you install anything. It should be flat, firmly fastened, and free of cracks. A damaged flange will let the new ring leak and can also let the toilet rock. Toilet flange basics describe what a healthy flange looks like, and how to replace toilet flange covers the repair when the flange is not reusable. If the flange top is below the finished floor, add a flange extender; see how to install toilet flange extender.

Step 4: Install the new wax ring

Fit the new wax ring over the flange opening. If the ring has a plastic sleeve, aim the sleeve down into the drain so the outlet horn will land inside it. The ring should sit flat and centered on the flange. You can also press the ring onto the toilet outlet first, but the flange method is easier for most people to line up.

Handle the wax as little as possible. The seal is formed when the toilet compresses the ring, so a ring that is stretched, torn, or shifted before installation will not seal correctly. If you are using a rubber gasket, the same rule applies: the gasket needs a clean, level flange and a straight downward seat.

Step 5: Reseat the bowl

Put the closet bolts into the slots on the flange before you lower the toilet, or line up the bolt holes in the toilet base with bolts that are already in place. Lower the bowl straight down over the wax ring. Do not slide or twist the bowl once it touches the wax, because that can push the ring out of position.

Press down gently to seat the bowl, then thread the nuts onto the closet bolts. Tighten them a little at a time, alternating sides, until the bowl feels firm. Porcelain can crack if you over-tighten, so stop as soon as the bowl no longer moves. If the bowl rocks, check the floor for low spots and use shims under the base before you finish tightening.

Step 6: Reconnect, tighten, and test for leaks

Reconnect the supply line and open the shut-off valve slowly. Flush the toilet a few times and watch the base, the bolt caps, and the supply connection. Dry the floor around the toilet first so fresh water is easy to spot. If you see moisture, the article on how to fix toilet base leak separates the common causes.

Leaks that start immediately usually mean the bowl was not seated squarely, the bolts were uneven, or the flange was not ready for the ring. You may need to remove the toilet, clean off the wax, and try again. If the flange is the problem, the repair guidance in the flange articles above will apply before you install another ring.

After the repair: when a new toilet makes sense

If you have the toilet off the floor anyway, compare the job of putting the old one back with the work of installing a new fixture. Toilets are the main source of water use indoors, accounting for nearly 30 percent of an average home's indoor water consumption, and older toilets can use as much as 6 gallons per flush. WaterSense labeled toilets use 1.28 gallons per flush or less while meeting the same performance requirements. That makes replacement an attractive option during a repair in an older bathroom.

A new toilet is also the right call when the bowl or tank is cracked, the flange cannot be repaired, or the old fixture has other faults that are not worth chasing. Match the replacement to your rough-in and the height you need. The 1.28 GPF toilet guide covers efficient models, and the related guides at the end of this page list options by rough-in, bowl style, and height. In a commercial or public bathroom, the 2010 ADA Standards and the Access Board's ADA Accessibility Standards set the accessibility requirements for covered facilities.

What to pick for your use

Questions

How often should a toilet wax ring be replaced?

There is no set schedule. A wax ring can last for many years, but it fails when the toilet rocks, the flange is damaged, or the wax dries out. Replace it whenever you see water around the base or whenever the toilet is lifted for another reason, because lifting the bowl breaks the seal.

Can I reuse the old wax ring after removing the toilet?

No. The old wax has already compressed into the shape of the old flange and bowl outlet, and it will not reseal after the toilet is lifted. A new ring is the only reliable choice for this repair.

What should I do if the toilet still leaks after a new wax ring?

Dry the floor and flush again. If moisture returns, remove the toilet, clean the flange, and repeat the installation with a fresh ring. Check that the bowl sits level and that the closet bolts were tightened evenly. If the flange sits below the finished floor, use a flange extender; see how to install toilet flange extender.

Is a wax-free rubber gasket better than a wax ring?

For most flanges, a wax ring is the traditional choice and handles slight differences in flange height. A rubber gasket is an alternative and some people find it less messy. The right choice depends on the condition and height of your flange.

Do I need new closet bolts with the new wax ring?

New bolts are a good idea if the old ones are rusty or bent. The ring creates the seal, but the bolts keep the bowl pressed down so the seal can work. If the old bolts are clean and straight, you can reuse them.

Why does my toilet rock even with a new wax ring?

A rocking toilet is usually a floor or flange issue, not a wax issue. The bowl needs to sit flat on the floor while the flange supports it. Add shims under the low side if the floor is uneven, and repair a damaged flange before relying on the wax seal. The steps are in how to level a wobbly toilet.